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by year 1988-2005 by area early climbs why have web trip reports?

2004

P: Disco, Mono 3/17/04 Lin Murphy
Y: Sons of Yesterday, Parkline Slab 3/20-21/04 Lin
Y: Parkline Slab, Slab Happy Pinnacle 3/27-28/04 Lin
Death Valley: Telescope Peak 11,049' 4/5/04 Renata, Skyler, Lance and Jack Kerrebrock
P: FA of Condor 70 4/28/04 Bruce
Lover's Leap: Leading class 5/1-2/04 photos SAC
Y: Royal Arches, Crest Jewel, Grack Marginal 5/22-23/04 Chris Harvey, SAC
Y: East Buttress of Middle Cathedral, South Crack, Low Profile Dome 5/29-30/04 Tim Tuomey, Jared Brown, Jesse Hanson
Y: Coyote Rocks, Dixie Peach, Sweet Nothings, On the Lamb 6/5-6/04 Tim
Y: Quiet Desperation, Table of Contents, Galactic Hitchhiker (to Oasis), The Cobra, Dixie Peach, Footnote, Cryin' Time Again, Lunatic Fringe, Nutcracker 6/15-20/04 Lin, Carissa Aoki Cobra photos
Y: Moratorium, New Scavenger, Lembert 6/26-28/04 Lin
Y: White Flake, Eunuch, Slabstick, Great White Book, El Condor 7/17-18/04 photo Lance
Y: Inverted Staircase, Lucky Streaks, Darth Vader's Revenge 8/21-22/04 Jason Liebgott
Y: SAC Anchors II class 10/22-23/04 photos SAC
Goat Rock: SAC Intro class 10/30/04 photos SAC
P: West Side rebolting 11/17/04 Bruce
We completed the rebolting of Machete Direct by sprucing up its first pitch and belay anchor. Then we did a little work on Lava Falls, replacing bolt hangers at the anchors, and Bruce replaced the last lead bolt on the second pitch.
P: West Side rebolting 12/2/04 Bruce
We rebolted the second pitch of the Balconies Regular Route. Bruce replaced 7 bolts, and I replaced 4 and added a second bolt at the anchor. A rather horrifying pitch, with the rusty 1/4" bolts and their tiny homemade aluminum hangers, that I was not sure I even wanted to grab for aid. But I was so pumped from trying to follow pitch one free that I had to grab a lot of them anyway....
Y: Cookie, Five and Dime 12/10-12/04 Paul Friberg

2005

Y: Reed's, Cookie, Pat and Jack 3/5-6/05 Johan Hvenmark Lunatic Fringe - Johan
Y: Cookie, Serenity/Sons 3/11-12/05 Jared Brown Wheat Thin - Jared
Indian Creek 3/18-28/05 Jared, Johan (outline with day 1 filled in; more hopefully later, before I forget what happened...)
Mantle Illness - Polly Scarface - Marshall, Jared
Carson Pass - SAC Mountaineering Workshop 4/9-10/05 self arrest, deadman anchor testing, boot-axe belay, crevasse rescue
P: Sinbad 4/13/05 Brad
Y: Knob Hill, Church Bowl 4/16/05 SAC folks photos
Castle/Goat Rock 4/17/05 SAC intro trip photos
Stanford climbing wall - prusiking practice 4/18,20/05
Shasta - SAC Mountaineering Workshop 4/22-23/05
Handley Rock - SAC crevasse rescue training 4/24/05
Tollhouse Rock - SAC Lead Climbing Workshop 5/7-8/05 photos
P: Long's Folly, Condor Crags 5/14/05 Lance Condor Crags - Lance
Lover's Leap - SAC Lead Climbing Workshop 5/21-22/05 photos
Lassen Peak - Summit + Snowboard 5/29/05 Skyler, John + Will Hicks photos
Y: Nose 6/2-6/05 Johan pitch above King Swing - Johan
Handley Rock 6/11/05 Karen, Paula, Aura
some fun toproping on a nice day Handley - Karen
Y: hiking 6/12/05 solo
One thing I checked out was the left side of Little Wing. I found the climbs, but they have too many detached/loose blocks, so it's not a good place for beginners.
Needles 6/19-21/05 Erika Monahan, Alexander Cooper
6/19: Spooky p1, Stars and Stripes Forever, Pinhead (toprope - Alex), The Raven (toprope; Clint didn't quite get it free)
6/20: Fancy Free, Igor Unchained Fancy Free - Erika
6/21: Innersanctum
more details later
Olympic Mountains: Mt. Washington 7/7/05 Nancy, Renata, Skyler
This was a fun climb - a little more interesting than hiking, but not too scary, so we didn't have to uncoil the tiny rope I brought.
3rd class near summit - Renata descent
Needles 7/23-24/05 Jared, Alexander
7/23: combo linkup: Innersanctum/Brute Force/Wicked - Jared Brute Force - Jared
Thin Ice - Jared
7/24: Airy Interlude - Jared
new 5.9 route left of North Chimney - Alexander, Jared
more details later
Tuolumne Meadows 8/6-7/05 - Claire Tomkins
8/6: Crescent Arch; had to retreat in rain after first pitch
Nutcracker - started at 6:30pm, getting dark on the mantle!
8/7: West Crack - swapped leads West Crack p2 - Clint (photo by Dan Urban) West Crack p2 knob arete - Claire West Crack p3 - Claire Blown Away - Dan Urban
South Crack - swapped leads, a bit of sleet/rain made the runouts interesting South Crack p1 - Claire ASCA rebolting - Greg Barnes
White Mountains (New Hampshire): Mt. Washington 8/17/05 family
Needles 8/27-28/05 Alexander
8/27: Witch Doctor, photos
Love Potion #9 (to top) Love Potion #9 p2 - Alexander
8/28: Broomsticks, Gobsmacked p2 (tr), Gemstone (tr)
Tuolumne 9/10-11/05 Wayne Burleson
9/10: Hermaphrodite Flake L side + Eunuch, a quick run up Stately Pleasure Dome before dark
9/11: Third Pillar, an enjoyable race against the shade, up this classic. Third Pillar - first pitch - Wayne
Needles 9/17-20/05 SAC
9/17: Magician/Strange Brew - Clint/Andrea, Chris/Etienne Strange Brew start - Andrea Strange Brew p6 - Andrea Strange Brew p11 - Andrea alpenglow on the Wizard
first aid/rescue of injured leader on Igor Unchained - Alexander/Steph/Marshall/Polly
Innersanctum - Alexander/Steph
9/18: Thin Ice - Marshall/Polly
The Howling - Clint/Andrea, Chris/Etienne
5.9 flake route on NE side of Witch - Alexander/Steph
Gorilla Warfare - Alexander/Polly/Marshall/Steph
Witch North Ridge - Clint/Andrea, Chris/Etienne
9/19: White Punks on Dope - Clint/Etienne, Chris/Steph
9/20: rain :-(
Y: Positively 4th Street, Church Bowl 10/1-2/05 SAC
15 people participated: Clint, Andrea, Charles-Henri, Björn, Darko, Sam, Etienne, Steph Abegg, Justin, Lindsay, Barbara, Natalie, Jennifer, Doug, and Alyssa.
Saturday: we did some crack climbing training on Positively 4th Street and Nutty Buddy, as well as toproping attempts on Absolutely Sweet Marie, and half a pitch of My Left Foot. Darko and Etienne climbed 1-2 pitches above Positively 4th Street, but this is not recommended for the future as there are a lot of loose rocks up there and some were knocked down by mistake (fortunately to the side of us, but still scary).
Sunday: we climbed at the Church Bowl, with topropes on Black is Brown, Uncle Fanny, Church Bowl Lieback, Pole Position, and Revival. Sam and Justin led Bishop's Terrace, and Darko led Pole Position and Tammy Fae.
photos
Y: Middle Cathedral - East Buttress 10/9/05 SAC
finishing p2 - Anne top of p5 - Christopher finishing p7 - Anne
Y: Central Pillar of Frenzy, El Capitan - East Buttress 10/15-16/05 Chris Chan photos
Y: Braille Book, Harry Daley, Chouinard Crack 10/22-23/05 SAC photos
Y: Bishop's Terrace, Central Pillar of Frenzy, Absolutely Free Center 10/29-30/05 Claire photos
Y: Serenity Crack / Ahwahnee Buttress / Sons of Yesterday , El Capitan - East Buttress 11/5-6/05 Anne photos
Y: Swan Slab, Harry Daley, Bishop's Terrace 11/12-13/05 SAC photos
P: Proclamation Pinnacle, Citadel Stream Boulders 11/17-18/05 Brad
P: Rock Around the Clock - day 1 12/7/05 Bruce
Y: Serenity Crack / Ahwahnee Buttress / Sons of Yesterday , Little John Right 12/10-11/05 Claire photos
P: Rock Around the Clock - day 2 12/14/05 Bruce
Y: Serenity Crack / Ahwahnee Buttress / Sons of Yesterday 12/17/05 Erika photos

2006

P: Discovery Wall + Monolith 1/16/06 Chris Chan photos
P: Discovery Wall + Monolith 1/28-29/06 SAC photos
Y: Manure Pile Buttress + Five Open Books 2/4-5/06 SAC photos
P: Rock Around the Clock - day 3 2/7/06 Bruce
Y: Rixon's Pinnacle + El Cap base 2/11-12/06 Chris Chan photos
Y: Meat Grinder p1/Bev's Tower, Catchy, Lunatic Fringe 2/26/06 Debby Wallach photos
P: Rock Around the Clock - day 4 2/27/06 Bruce
Indian Creek, Moses: 4/1-8/06 Debby, SAC photos
P: Rock Around the Clock - day 5 4/19/06 Bruce
J: Slammer start, Whipping Boy 4/23/06 Debby, Marshall
We had planned to climb at the Cookie, but it started raining before we had even reached Mariposa, so we changed plans and went to Jailhouse instead. The warmup route was closed due to a very active eagle's nest on top, so we played on the start of Slammer (short and steep), and then I aided through the crux of Whipping Boy and we all worked it on toprope.
Indian Creek: 4/28-5/4/06 Erika, Seth, Amy, Mark, Erik Neumann Amy's trip report South Sixshooter photos
Y: DNB/Ho Chi Minh Trail to p8, Reed's Direct, Committment 5/13-14/06 Claire photos
Y: Cookie - Bev's, Wheat Thin, Butterfingers, Hardd, Outer Limits 5/20 Chris photos
Y: Higher Spire - East Corner, Surprise, Selaginella 6/3-4/06 Claire Higher Spire photos Surprise / Selaginella photos
Y: Quarter Dome / Pegasus recon 6/10-11/06 photos
Needles 6/17-18/06 Anne-Soisig, Alexander
Igor Unchained, Thin Ice, Fancy Free, The Entity p1-p2 photos by Alexander Cooper
Needles 6/24-25/06 Brian Cox, also Alexander, Hristo
Airy Interlude, The Howling, Ghostbumps, Lethargy, Yellow Brick Road / Emerald City var., bolted arete route to left
Washington Cascades 7/8-16/06 Steph Abegg
Mt. Stuart - complete North Ridge Steph's trip report photos
Prusik Peak - South Face - Burgner-Stanley Steph's trip report photo
South Early Winter Spire - East Buttress Steph's trip report
North Early Winter Spire - West Face Steph's trip report photos summitpost.org
Needles 7/22-23/06 Debby, also Alexander, Hristo photos
Saturday: Airy Interlude, then sprinking and rain from thunderstorms in the afternoon
Sunday: Innersanctum, Thin Ice
Needles 7/29-31/06 SAC
29: Innersanctum - Sam, Mike, Nicolas
Witch Doctor p1 - Clint, Fortune
Phosphorescent Flow (tr) - Clint
Thin Ice - Mike, Nicolas
Igor Unchained - Sam, Clint
30: Airy Interlude - Mike, Nicolas, Clint
The Howling - Sam, Nicolas
Atlantis - Mike, Clint
31: Brute Force to Wicked - Mike, Clint a few photos
Fancy Free - Mike, Clint
partial trip report
Tuolumne Meadows 8/19-20/06 Bruce Hildenbrand
Sat: we replaced all 8 bolts on Myopia, which Bruce had established with Tom Sisson in 1978. On the topo, it is mislabelled as U.F.R. in the first 3 editions of the Tuolumne guidebook. There is a bolted rap station on the top of the route which was placed by Greg Barnes, where the 3rd edition topo says "fixed nuts".
We then replaced the 2 remaining 1/4" bolts p3 of The Vision, and the only remining 1/4" bolt on Alchemist's Re-vision p3 (higher bolts on A.R. are 5/16" plus a 3/8" at the sling belay). The other bolts on The Vision had previously been replaced by Greg.
Note for future rebolters: the bolts on p1 of Ooze and Ahs are still 1/4", as is the first bolt on p3.
Sun: we replaced all 8 bolts on Faux Pas. 7 are shown in the topo in the 3rd edition guidebook. The 8th was a hangerless bolt midway up the last pitch. We ran out of bolts and had to bum a few from a nice climber we met in the parking lot at the store; we placed 2 of these on the route.
The bolts on Tourist Trap are 1/4". The upper bolt on Pippin looks like it is 1/4".
Needles 8/26-38/06 SAC
26: Romantic Warrior (6.1 pitches) - Mike, Jared photos by Alexander
Romantic Warrior (3 pitches) - Darko, Clint
Magic Dragon - Sam, Nicolas, Justin, Jennifer, Aaron
27: Airy Interlude - Darko, Justin, Sam
Igor Unchained - Nicolas, Jennifer
Spook Book - Mike, Jared
Imaginary Voyage - Clint, Aaron
Ice Pirates - Mike, Jared
Atlantis - Darko, Nicolas
The Howling (1.5 pitches) - Sam, Jennifer, Justin
replaced bolt belay on Pegleg / Ankles Away - Clint
28: Witch Doctor - Clint, Nicolas photos
Fancy Free - Jared, Darko, Jennifer
Spooky (toprope) - Nicolas (2x), Clint, Jared
Y: Cookie 9/9/06 Darko
Outer Limits p1 - C led
Outer Limits p2 - D led
Elevator Shaft - D, C toproped
Waverley Wafer - D led w/ some hangs, C followed desperately with a somewhat tight rope, then did a clean TR lap with no gear
We had to cut the trip short after Saturday, as I had strained some tendon/muscle that lifts my right thigh. Darko also had a twisted ankle from the previous weekend.
Y: Cookie, Hot Line 9/23-24/06 Darko
Enigma p1 - D led
Enema p1 - D led, w/ some hangs
Catchy - C led
Catchy Corner - D led, with a couple of hangs
Hardd p1 - C led, aided final fingerlock section; it was dark when I finished, so Darko didn't get a chance to follow
Hot Line p1 - C led, belay anchor has 1 3/8" SS ASCA Fixe ring hanger
Hot Line p2 - C led (aided). Fixed old purple Camalot, 2 wired nuts and biner at pendulum point, fixed Leeper angle 2/3 way across traverse. Belay anchor: 1 3/8" SS ASCA, 1 dark hex head (Rawlbolt?) w/ SMC hanger, 1 1/4" w/ chain to alminum rap ring. 2 screw links added somewhat randomly
Hot Line p3 - D led; my favorite hand crack pitch in the Valley. Belay anchor: 1 3/8" SS ASCA, 1 3/8" button head with Metolius hanger, 1 1/4". Cut piece of rope visible in crack below.
Hot Line p4 - D led. Belay anchor: old fixed slings around block, plus cams
Hot Line p5 - C led. Belay anchor: hand sized cams at base of bombay. Bolted belay / rappel anchor (3/8" bolts with cold shut) 30' below, where 5.11d roof variation splits off to left.
We then traversed out to the right and rapped off.
Rap anchors:
1. (top of Nightmare): rusty hex head bolt (1/4" Taperbolt?) plus good angle piton; fixed Light D biner. 120'.
2. (top of Pink Dream): 3 rusty 1/4" buttonheads, #3 Rock, biner, 3 aluminum rings. 160'
3. (in chimney with bay trees): slings around tunnel between blocks; one good, several bad. 50'
Descent continued with 3rd class 500' descending traverse on ledges to south. Then trail back north along base.
The stream crossing below the Cookie was dicey. On the way back, we followed a trail down, which was below Crack of Doom and suggested a lower stream crossing. Darko forded the Merced, while I scrambled a little further downstream and found a dry crossing below his ford.
Y: Braille Book 9/30-10/1/06 Claire
On Saturday, we swung leads on Braille Book.
On Sunday, we started up the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral, but it started sprinking when we were at the end of the first pitch, so we rapped off.
Y: Astroman 10/6/06 Jason Price
p1+p2 5.10a: Jason led
p3 "boulder problem" 5.11c: J led, 1 fall, nice job. Fixed pin is loose. photo
p4 "Enduro" 5.11c: J led, clean to the rest, 3-4 hangs on the crux upper section. 50m lead to Overnight Ledge. I hung twice following.
p5 5.9: C led, short hand crack to stance at bottom of flare
p6 5.10b: C led, wide hand crack in flare to lieback. I spent a fair amount of time getting a rest and a little pro out left of the lieback flake before finally doing the lieback (a bit scary for me).
p7 "Harding Slot" 5.11b: C led up into the slot, aiding on most of the cams (trying to save a little strength). I got beaten up in the slot, though. In sight of the anchors, I couldn't get past the final constriction. After more than an hour of trying, I had to concede to myself that I just wasn't making progress, so I lowered off. In the process I had gained chin abrasions, nose abrasions, bruised sternum, raw elbows, and even a bruise on the back of my head. :-) I need to retrain for squeezes, even though I had led this before.
Jason was shivering a bit at the belay. He went up and finished the slot, after a few hangs on the difficult entrance moves. I followed by batmanning the rope on the outside of the slot.
p8 5.10b: J led, with some occasional hangs, due to cramping arms. With rope drag and few cams, he stopped below the final 5.9 lieback. It was getting dark, and started to sprinkle when I reached his belay. So it was time to bail. Jason left a large stopper here.
The rappel down the Harding Slot was tricky. I kept the rope in the slot but didn't clip any gear and barely contacted the rock down below. With a careful launch from some sloping footholds I managed to swing left and gain a fist crack, then one more sideways move to the staircase flake and belay bolts. We were back down to the car at midnight.
Saturday and Sunday were much needed rest days!
Castle/Goat Rock 10/14/06 SAC intro trip photos
Y: Free Blast, Goodrich Pinnacle 11/4-5/06 Anne
Free Blast - p3 traverse - I hung on the pin midway and used it to lean over and clip the fixed wired nut, then did the moves. Anne cruised it. On p4 I stayed free for a long ways, but had to aid through the glassy stemming section by the bush. Anne styled it wearing her pack which had the rappel rope in it. p5 (5.10d groove) I was free until the move past the roof. I aided on a couple of small wires and then did some mandatory friction to reach the bolt. Occasional yards on other bolts on the pitch. Anne took a hang at around the roof and used a couple of bolts as well. p6 Anne led - very glassy; a couple of points of aid; I batmanned to the pin and beyond. p7 Anne led (5.9 corner). I aided the moves into the Half Dollar flaring chimney; Anne followed in the dark with a headlamp. I led the last 2 pitches with her headlamp and she followed in the indirect moonlight.
We got to visit Kelly Rich and Tom Davis on Saturday night
Goodrich Pinnacle - Right Side, we found the glassy friction challenging.
P: High Peaks 11/12/06 SAC
Long's Folly, North and South Fingers, Condor Crags, Burgundy Dome, Piglet and The Unmentionable
P: Machete Ridge rebolting 11/16/06 Bruce
We upgraded the 3 slab rappel stations on the Old Original route, replacing the Fixe ring hangers with Fixe large hangers and galvanized 3/8" chain. These rappels are each about 70', and it is fairly easy to downclimb to the lowest station. I replaced two 1/4" bolts in the Rappel Bypass route to the right/southwest. I also placed one bolt and replaced one bolt on an unlisted rappel bypass route to the left/NE of the slab rappels.
We continued to the saddle above Machete Direct. Here we removed the two bolts with Fixe ring hangers atop the final pitch of Machete Direct. We feel they probably contributed to people attempting to rappel down that route (west face). The chain anchors for the standard east face rappel are still in place. This should reduce confusion.
We replaced 2 protection bolts and (the) one anchor bolt on the Barber's Backside route, which lies directly under the east face rappel.
The east face gully looked a bit damp/slippery, so we opted to climb back to the notch below the slab rappels, where we worked on the left/NE rappel bypass route, and then rappelled down our west face route (south of Bill's Bad Bolts).
Y: NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock, Gripper 11/18-19/06 Darko
Saturday: NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock 5.9+ photos
Sunday: Arch Rock - Gripper 5.10b
P: Balconies 11/25/06 SAC (Moritz, Justin B., Cory, Emily, Greg, Ada)
Lava Falls p1, Peregrine p1, Conduit to the Cosmos p1, Smiling Simian, Little Big Dog photos
P: Balconies 11/26/06 SAC (Ken, Jason K., Justin H., Ian, Maria, Martin, Charles)
Lava Falls p1, Peregrine p1, Smiling Simian, Bad Ape photos
P: Machete Ridge rebolting 11/30/06 Bruce
We climbed up to just left of the base of Bill's Bad Bolts, where there is an old bolt ladder which is not in the guidebook. I led up it, finding 7 aid bolts to 2 old and tattered slings. After a little scrubbing, I made some free moves to a sloping boulder and a protection bolt, which was a 1/4" Zmac rivet (like a 1/4" Star-Dryvin, with lead sheath). I spied 2 belay bolts 15' above, so after removing some large loose holds, I made a few scary moves up to the belay, situated at a boulder which is not quite solidly attached. These belay bolts were good Star-Dryvin. I spied one bolt on the second pitch, diagonally up and right about 20'. I climbed carefully over to it - another 1/4" Zmac. I couldn't see any more bolts, and the climbing looked a bit harder, so I downclimbed back to the belay. Bruce sent up two nicely painted quicklink/chainlink combos, which I set up on the belay bolts. I then rapped down and replaced the highest 2 bolts on the pitch. The rap was about 50' back to the terrace. In the meantime, Bruce had cleaned up the belay anchor in the streak/grassy gully below Bill's Bad Bolts, and had installed a new rap anchor with chains just below the gully, where the pull for the rap ropes would be easier.
We then rapped down Gary and Phyllis' Headwall, and replaced the upper 4 bolts. Bruce had previously replaced the hanger on the first bolt, and F4Boy or someone had done a nice job replacing the second bolt.
P: new routes 12/2/06 Lance
Lance and I climbed a couple of new routes. The first one was a pinnacle below the Junipero Canyon Trail, below and west of the Monument. We had noticed it a few years ago. It has two summits, split by a wide gap. I climbed a crack which starts in the gap and goes up the steep south formation. It was mostly blocked with stones, but I placed a 3" cam and did some 5.8 hand jamming to reach easier ground. After tagging the 4th class south summit, I stepped over to climb a very loose face and diagonal crack on the north summit. This protected fairly well with a #1.5 Friend and TCUs. I placed 2 bolts with lap links on top. Lance followed, using an aid sling to get started, since he doesn't know how to hand jam.
Next we hurried back to the car and dumped off all the cams. We hiked in to the Smiles boulder near the base of the Balconies. On the way, we saw Dennis Erik Strom rapping down from climbing Where the Birds Hang (with Brad Young). I led up a line of good solid holds left of No Smiles. I used the same start as No Smiles, then went left and placed one bolt from a stem stance with a hook on a good incut knob directly overhead. I used a 3/8" x 3" SS wedge bolt that I had bought from Bruce's supply, which seemed appropriate for the nice hard/solid rock. Then Lance belayed me as I made a few 5.7 moves up the headwall to where it got less steep. I went to the top, and Lance followed it free. He rapped down on the Grigri, also belayed by me. I placed a second bolt on the upper (easy) part of the route, so people would not be in groundfall range up there.
Y: Church Bowl 12/3/06 SAC (Ken, Daniel Preda, Darko, Colin, Heather, Clint, Moritz, Ian, Greg, Justin B, Chris M)
Several of these folks went up on Saturday and climbed, including Ken and Daniel on After Seven/After Six.
On Sunday, we met at the Church Bowl, where Daniel led Uncle Fanny 5.7, I led Church Bowl Lieback 5.8, Darko led Revival 5.10a, and I led Black is Brown 5.8. We set up topropes on all these routes. Bishop's Terrace was climbed by Justin + Chris, Ken + Daniel, and Darko + Ian. I also placed two bolts with chains on top of Black is Brown, to make a more direct toprope/rappel anchor and to prevent further erosion of soil/rocks from the dirt slope on top of the cliff. It was a bit chilly in the shade belaying at the base, but we all seemed to have brought enough warm clothes to handle it. photos
Y: Royal Arches slab rebolting 12/13-14/06 Melissa
On Wednesday, we had an adventure climbing up Double Trouble 5.10b to set up fixed ropes for rebolting the 3 slab climbs there. The lower 30' was wet and slick due to recent rains, so I lowered in to the second bolt using a pine tree in the corner to the right. I was a little gripped at the 3rd bolt, so I grabbed the draw briefly to clip in. The 4th bolt was 3/8", with a longer runout above and no obvious good holds along the way. I climbed up above the bolt, but still didn't see much, so I downclimbed and turned the lead over to Melissa.
She had a little difficulty getting used to the rock (as I also had), where one uses small and slightly loose flakes to progress upwards, not to mention her brand new shoes. She was wise enough to bring the cheater stick with her (while I had forgotten it at the base). My long cheater stick (tent pole) was rather flimsy, but she did a nice job of successively hooking and aiding up 3 bolts on the middle route, and then 4 bolts on the right route. After backcleaning to eliminate the zigzag rope drag, she tried the top runout section, but it was too sketchy, so she lowered (barely enough rope) to the pine tree on the right.
We swapped leads again, and for expediency, I climbed above the pine tree to a live oak, then swung over left to the arete on tension. After some fun toproping up the arete to the high point, I managed to lead the final section to the anchors. I fixed the middle of the rope to the top, so that both ends reached the pine tree.
We got out our bolt kits and ascenders, and Melissa took the center route, while I took the right route. Daylight was waning, but I managed to replace 2 bolts and Melissa replaced one (it was especially hard to remove). As darkness fell, I changed the anchor to a single line and rapped to the base. I stashed some gear and we walked down and had dinner; we drove out of the park on 140 to sleep.
Thursday. After breakfast at the Church Bowl (hazy sunshine, a bit chilly), we returned to the base, where Melissa jugged up and fixed her rope. We continued working on the center and right routes; Melissa replaced 4 bolts, and I got 5, to make the right route all 3/8". Melissa had a blister from her drill holder, and I was very close to getting one from mine.
For future reference, Double Trouble has 8x, not 7x. And it is a 120' rappel to the base, or possibly 80+' to the corner above the pine tree where 3rd class leads back to the base.
On Friday, Melissa completed the rebolting of the middle route, in spite of light rain. It now has 7 new SS bolts (plus the final bolt on the right route). One of the anchor bolts on top had been previously replaced by J and Ben. The second anchor bolt is a 5/16" buttonhead with a Kong-Bonatti hanger, and the third is a 3/8" StarDryvin with SMC SS hanger (looking fairly good).
P: Balconies Regular Route rebolting 12/20/06 Bruce
Bruce led p1 (on aid), in spite of his bandaged finger (pepper slicing incident); I jumared in my hiking boots with my pack. In a prior 3rd day of rebolting on this route, Bruce and Frost Saufly had replaced 6 more bolts, so there are only 3 original bolts remaining on it (11th - 1/4", 14th - 3/8" Star Dryvin, and 17th - 1/4" on easy ground).
I changed into my rock shoes and tossed my boots to the ground. I led p2 with some occasional aid. It was nice to have the gear this time - I used a #3 Friend, #2 TCU and #2.5 Friend, although I backcleaned the #2.5 after noticing a bolt not too far above it. I rapped down to the midway belay and replaced the first bolt above it, and the first bolt below it. Bruce replaced 4 bolts below the belay and finished my start on the 3rd bolt above the belay. There are 3 original bolts remaining on p2 (5th - 1/4", 6th - 3/8" Star Dryvin, 10th - 3/8" Star Dryvin/rusty).
I led p3, which was accurately rated as 5.9 in Brad's nice new topo. I used a little aid at times, grabbing the upper 2 fixed pins which protect the airy crux. After anchoring to the big pine tree above the final corner, I rapped back down and replaced the first bolt, while Bruce replaced bolts 2 and 4. Bolt 3 (3/8" Star Dryvin) was not original and is close to bolt 2. Bruce also put a hanger on the 3/8" bolt (5) which is low in the final corner on the right. We descended by walking over to the rap station atop Hook and Drill. It's 155' to the ground. Bruce had brought chains for fixing up this station, but there was already a nice set of chains in place (stale beta from Clint).
P: midweek 12/28/06 Sharon Houck
On a nice clear blue sky day, we climbed: Ordeal, Wet Kiss, Jorgie's Crack, and Terranean Tango. I led these and Sharon followed, with some occasional hangs due to not climbing enough recently. To end the day I toproped POD.

2007

P: Machete N side 1/19/07 Brad
We climbed the first pitch of Cuidado, extended to the belay at the end of Flies on a Pile. I added a bolt to this belay. Brad led to the top of the short aid pitch above. Then he replaced 2 bolts and placed a pin on the old 7 bolt route directly below. He had tried to lead it at the start of the day, but the mossy runout above the old 3rd bolt was too dangerous.

J: intro trip 1/20/07 SAC
Jared, Koichi and I drove out to Jailhouse. Dan Urban and Evan arrived shortly, and Simon also arrived soon, after his alarms failed and he had to drive separately. Jared finished my partial lead of the 5.11d warmup route; then we all toproped on it. Dan and Evan warmed up on the start of Iron Junky. The temp was fairly cool, so it felt nice to move over to the sunny end of the crag, where most of us worked on Whipping Boy, while Dan worked his project Supreme Being with Evan and then Jared worked it to the top anchor. Evan got a good workout, doing much of the Lineup bolt to bolt. At the end of the day Jared tried Soap on a Rope, after threading his rope through the first 6 bolts for a toprope start. He climbed it free to the high point (past the long move to the letterbox hold), then ran out of strength after a good day at the crag.

P: midweek 2/2/07 Sharon
We warmed up at the Tourist Trap, doing Nipple Jam, Thrill Hammer, and Rat Race. I had not done any of these routes before.
Next was Plague at Discovery Wall, but starting to the right on Trauma. This eliminated the 5.10a start and yielded a fairly nice 5.8 (R) route.
On to the Monolith, where I led the Indirect Traverse to finish on Terranean Tango. Sharon was a bit out of gas for the bouldery start, so she called it a day. I toproped POD (barely), and then rapped to clean the previous route.

Goat Rock 2/3/07 SAC photos
Y: Bishop's Terrace, After Seven, Reed's Pinnacle, La Cosita Right 3/10-11/07 Moritz photos + report
Y: Royal Arches, Nutcracker 3/17-18/07 Sharon, SAC photos
Moab: Indian Creek, desert towers 3/24-4/1 Jared, Mike, Matt
3/24 Supercrack buttress
3/25 Battle of the Bulge buttress
photos through 3/25 and preview of coming attractions
3/26 Cat Wall
3/27 Supercrack buttress
3/28,29 rest/weather days in Durango
3/30 North Sixshooter
3/31 Standing Rock
4/1 Washerwoman Arch
Y: Lost Arrow tip, Swan Slab 4/7-8/07 SAC
Y: Lead climbing workshop 4/21-22/07 SAC
Y: Church Bowl, El Cap base 4/28-29/07 SAC
Y: Lead climbing workshop 5/5-6/07 SAC
Y: Church Bowl, Harry Daley 5/12-13/07 SAC
Y: Fairview Regular, Middle Cathedral East Buttress 5/14-15/07 Chris Chan photos
Y: Daff Dome - West Crack, Higher Cathedral Rock Northeast Buttress 5/21-22/07 Chris Chan
Y: Royal Arches to North Dome South Face 6/2/07 Björn Flatt, SAC
Y: Salathe' Wall 6/15-21/07 Chris Chan photos
Y: Arches Terrace rebolting 7/12-14/07 Roger Brown photos
Y: South Crack, West Crack 7/16/07 Eu-Jin
Y: Arches Terrace rebolting 7/22-24/07 Roger Brown, Ryan Mattock
Y: South Crack, Fairview Regular, Great White Book, Aqua Knobby 7/28-29/07 Rasmus Bokrantz
Y: Pennyroyal Arches - Deja View 5.8 (new route) 8/1/07 Bruce Hildenbrand
Bugaboos 8/5-10/07 Steph Abegg
South Howser Tower - Beckey-Chouinard
Snowpatch Spire - SE Corner
Steph's photo trip report
Y: Glacier Point Apron rebolting 8/17/07 Roger photos
We climbed Monday Morning Slab Right Side, Point Beyond, and Angel's Approach to Lucifer's Ledge and one pitch beyond. Fixed 7 ropes for Roger to rebolt all the nearby routes.
Needles: 8/26-28/07 Claire, Koichi, Lin
Sunday: Airy Interlude, Spooky
Monday: lightning struck the Warlock when we were at the base of The Howling, about to give up after the thunderheads had arrived. We all got some ground shocks - a bit scary. We then spent most of the day hiding from the rain in boulder caves. A little bouldering late in the day, and also some watching the forest fires to the north in Sequoia National Park.
Tuesday: Inner Sanctum, The Howling
Tuolumne: 9/6-8/07 Paul Friberg
Thursday: Shipoopi p1, a newer route, and a nap!
Friday: South Crack, Fairview Regular Route
Saturday: Blues Riff
Mt. Slesse - NE Buttress 9/14/07 Steph
Steph's photo trip report
Y: El Capitan - East Buttress 10/6/07 Ian, Lukasz, Daniel, Koichi, Colin
Lower Falls - Ten Years After, Lower Cathedral sport routes 10/7/07 Brian Cox
Lower Falls: warmup route, then Ten Years After - Brian led both.
Lower Cathedral: 76 Degrees in the Shade, End of the Line, Unnamed but Beautiful, Mac Daddy. Brian led the first 3 and we TRed the last due to fading light; I had one fall on it.
P: Intro Class 10/13/07 SAC photos
Y: Schultz's Ridge Base, Royal Arches Base 10/14/07 Brian
Schultz's Ridge Base bolted routes: 4 of the 5 routes on the L side; we skipped Second Thoughts
Royal Arches base: Arete Butler, Y Crack
Brian led all these
Indian Creek 10/20-28/07 Erika, SAC, friends
Y: El Capitan East Buttress, Serenity/Ahwanhee/Sons p1 11/3-4/07 Jennifer Tse photos
Y: SAC Anchors II class 11/10-11/07 SAC
Saturday - Little John Right 5.8, with Diana + Mico
Sunday - anchor practice in light drizzle + later sun
P: Disco + Mono 11/18/07 Clement, Dan Truong photos
Ordeal (Clint led), Wet Kiss (Clement led), Big Pucker (tr), Stupendous Man (Clement led), Power Point (Clint, Clement tr), POD (Clint led)
It was Clement's first visit to the Pinnacles, so we had to do POD; fortunately I was able to lead up it, since I hadn't done anything all that hard all day....
P: Disco + Mono 11/25/07 Clement
Swallow Crack (Clement led), Broken Arrow (Clint led), Between a Rock and a Hard Place (Clint led)
Terranean Tango (Clement led), Foreplay (Clint led with a hang), Hawaiian Noises (both tr, Clement twice), black streak right of POD (Clint tr), attempted tr left of POD (Clint many hangs)
Y: Cookie, S: Gold Wall 12/1-2/07 Noriko Setikawa
I led Outer Limits p1; Noriko followed nicely.
I led p1 of Hardd; it felt nice to get it clean this time. Noriko nearly got it as well, but had one hang near the top - not bad for being out of shape.
Just before dark, I went up the lower part of Royal Arches and added a rap station on the blank slab above the ledge atop the first pitch chimney. It is 85' below the chained station which is next to the dead snag. This makes it possible to rap this final wall with a single rope, which may be preferable to downclimbing over right, when the stream is running in the spring. It is a semi-hanging station. Probably the best way to handle it is to send one person down on a single strand to the big ledge, then the second person can rap to the new station and then one more rap to the big ledge. That would avoid having 2 people at the hanging station.
It was cloudier than we had hoped, but we got a little bit of sun at times.
On Sunday it was quite cloudy and cold, so we drove out to Jamestown and climbed at Gold Wall. I led a 5.10d in the middle and a 5.10 on the right side; Noriko led a 5.9 to finish off the day. Nice to be in the sun!
P: Disco + Mono 12/8/07 Leo, Rene, Mano
The weather was mostly cloudy and fairly cold, but we did get a little sun at times. Ran into Jared and Dan at the Monolith.
Wet Kiss (C led, L, R, M TRed)
Portent (C led, M followed; L led, R followed)
Monolith Direct (L led after C clipped first 2 bolts, M, R, C TRed)
Terranean Tango (C led, R, L, M TRed)
POD (C TRed 2x, R, L, M TRed to crux)
Hawaiian Noises (L, R, C TRed)

2008

P: Monolith 1/13/08 SAC informal trip - Ben, Andrew, Anna photos
I forgot one of the ropes, so things were a little slow, but it was nice and uncrowded as we did the Monolith Direct Route, Terranean Tango, Hawaiian Noises, and variations.
P: Discovery, Monolith 1/19/08 SAC folks - Eva, Rasmus, Justin, Wei, Linnea, Jeff, Ian, Brian, Wong, Bjorn, Wendy, and Sam
Y: Cookie, Arch 2/9-10/08 Eva, Justin B, Cory photos
Cookie: Eva led Bev's Tower, I led Wheat Thin. Eva led Outer Limits and toproped Crack-a-go-go. Cory and Justin did Outer Limits, Catchy and Catchy Corner. Saw many folks there - Ron Skelton, Werner Braun, Brad Young, Dan Urban and Nico.
Arch Rock: I led New Dimensions p1, Eva led Gripper p1 and p3; I led p2. Justin and Cory did Gripper and Midterm. Eva toproped Midterm with some batmanning through the wide transition. I batmanned there and also in most of the chimney. Justin and Cory worked on Short Circuit just before dark.
Y: base of El Cap, Pat+Jack, Serenity/Sons 2/16-18/08 Ben, Sam, Becca
- Saturday - base of El Cap: photos Sam's photos
  I led Sacherer Crack (w/ chimney finish - was glad I had kneepads this time); Ben followed. Sam led it and Becca followed, with some takes along the way and a little rope ascension at the very end.
  Sam led La Cosita Right; Becca followed. Ben led it and I followed. The height of the snow cone at the base meant we only had to do about 2 moves in the finger crack before reaching the hand jam!
  I led Moby Dick Center; Ben followed. Finally I finished this one, after downclimbing from the wide part years ago. The lower crux was almost eliminated by the 8' snowpack at the base. In the wide section, I used handstacks and pushed a #4 C4 up ahead of me on a sling.
  Sam led Pine Line and Becca followed.
- Sunday - Pat + Jack Pinnacle: photos
  Knob Job - I led and Ben followed. Later Sam led it and Sharon followed.
  Nurdle - Sam led; Becca followed.
  Sherrie's Crack - I led; Ben followed with one fall. Sam toproped it clean. It's tough.
  Knuckleheads - Ben led; Becca followed.
  Makayla's Climb on far right, L of crack - Ben led, Becca followed; Sam led, I followed.
  Suds (crack on far right) - Ben led, Becca followed; Clint led; Ben followed.
  bolted climb further L of crack - Becca led up a ways; Sam finished.
  Boneheads (slab to buttress above Babble On) - Ben led, Clint followed; Sam led; Becca followed.
  We saw many familiar folks there - Alex, Sharon, Justin B, Wendy, Jenn, Phyllis, Marc Jensen and his wife!
- Monday - Serenity Crack area. The day started with light overcast but the sun came out! Nice views down to snow on the valley floor.
  Ben and I did Serenity Crack/Ahwahnee Buttress/Sons of Yesterday. I led the odd pitches and Ben the evens. This included his first 2 leads of Valley 5.10s! The first pitch was pretty wet at the start and I was rather gripped. I don't recommend it when wet unless you know exactly how to place the first cam (green camalot level with stain from old bolt).
  Sam and Becca did Super Slide. Sam's photos
  Peruvian Flake - Sam led this right to the crux, but hesitated at the transition move (as many people have over the years) and ended up taking a fall. He downaided to clean his gear. Ben and I came by, and I led it. Ben followed, and Sam also toproped it. Becca climbed to the start of the finger crack but her hands were too tired to crack through that section.
Y: Reed's Pinnacle, Super Slide, Serenity/Sons 3/1-3/08 Noriko
Saturday: Reed's Direct, then tunneled through and summitted on Reed's Regular. Lunatic Fringe.
Sunday: Super Slide. Ran into Hal and Elmar on it. Also saw Justin and Cory doing Serenity/Sons.
Monday: Serenity/Sons.
Y: El Cap base, Reed's Pinnacle - Dream Easy 3/8-9/08 Noriko
Saturday - El Cap base: Little John Right, Salathe' p1
Sunday - Reed's Pinnacle: Dream Easy (5th ascent!) photos
Y: Free Blast, Magical Mystery Tour (attempt) 3/17-18/08 Jared
Monday - Free Blast. We delayed starting the route when some big chunks of ice came down from the top of El Cap, but not much came down for awhile, so we started up. Near sunset, some more big chunks came down, hitting near us on the last 2 pitches to Mammoth. Jared led all the hard pitches, including onsighting the 5.11b traverse on p3, and he freed all the way to the 5.11 slab crux on p5 (where we had very strong winds, which made it hard!). Plus the Half Dollar was a bit wet, which made it quite tough. I did a fair amount of yarding on gear, batmanning the rope, and aiding - my footwork is not very good at the moment! There were fixed lines from the left side of Mammoth to the ground, which we rappelled in the dark and moonlight with a belay.
Tuesday - Reed's Pinnacle: we climbed the first 2 pitches of Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route, and Jared managed to retrieve his chalk ball which he had lost some months ago behind a flake. Jared led Bong's Away Left, and I led 1.4 pitches of Magical Mystery Tour. The 5.10a traverse looks like it is protected with an old fixed piton high up in the crack, and we did not have a hammer to test it properly, or other gear to back it up. So we traversed back left and finished the day by toproping p2 of Reed's Direct - always a great workout.
Y: Reed's Pinnacle - Flatus/RORP, Cookie 3/22-23/08 Noriko
Saturday - Reed's Pinnacle - first 2 pitches of Flatus, variation finish to left, then 4 pitches of the RORP - we had fun exploring this, finding several wide cracks along the way...
Sunday - Cookie - Outer Limits, Cookie Center p1 (5.9), variation to right (5.9/5.10a), Meat Grinder p1 5.9, Bev's Tower, Aftershock (toprope)
Y: Sunshine Cliff - right side routes 3/29/08 Noriko
We had sun in the morning and the approach from 120 took 40 minutes at an easy pace, down a sandy/slabby slope with several fixed ropes under the power lines. I led Sweet Miracle 5.7 sloping knobs with a long reach right at the first bolt. Noriko led Slob Knob p1, which was a nice 5.4 finger crack with knobs to a diagonal 5.5 crack/lieback which had a lot of dirt but was clean enough to place gear in. I removed some more of the dirt while following. I led Hobknob p1 which had 3 bolts not shown on the topo we had. It was mostly 5.6, but with a 5.8 long reach move right at the top, or maybe a 5.10 move with optional small stopper pro directly above the 3rd bolt. I led p2, which was 5.6 knobs with 5 bolts, not shown in our topo. At this point we walked off right on the 3rd class ledge. We could have descended the approach gully, but Noriko had tight shoes, so instead we downclimbed 3rd and brief 4th class to the chains on top of Sweet Miracle and rapped to the base. We had originally hoped to climb out on Sweet Sunshine or one of Eric's other routes on the left side, but the sun had gone away and the dark clouds were threatening a bit, so we hiked out instead, after scoping the approach to the left side. It rained that night, and was pretty cloudy/cool on Sunday, so we drove home, after briefly trying to find the climbs at Two Mile Bar (no luck without the guidebook).
Y: Reed's, Parkline - mostly obscure routes 4/5-6/08 Wei Wu
Sat - Reed's: Ejesta, RORP to The Gray Bullet
Sun - Parkline: Hayley Anna, Vanderbilt-Gledhill (FA of finger crack left of Hayley Anna) photo trip report
Y: Edge of Absurdity, Mr. Natural, Chouinard Crack 4/26-27/08 Jared
Sat - Edge of Absurdity. photos
We found Eric and Kevin on p1 and climbed alongside them.
On Saturday night we ran into Cory + Laura + friends at the pizza deck, and then Polly, Marshall, Alexander, Jeff, and friends. Some of them had just done Mr. Natural.
Sun - Apron. Jared led Mr. Natural nicely. photos
I followed (great to do this climb again after about 15 years of not doing it due to rockfall fears) and we replaced one of the anchor bolts, so it has two 3/8" bolts now.
We toproped Dr. Feel Good cleanly, which was also fun and an old favorite of mine. Jared then led both pitches of Chouinard Crack, and we toproped the upper pitch of Harry Daley.
Y: Lead Climbing class 5/3-4/08 SAC
we climbed at Reed's, the Apron, and Braille Book
Y: NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock, Reed's 5/10-11/08 Tim Reddy
Saturday: we were the 2nd party of 4 parties on the NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock. Tim latches the bucket above the squeeze
Sunday: Tim warmed up by climbing the 5.8 first pitch of Reed's Regular. Then we had a jumar session with Erika, practicing following a pendulum (as Erika was going for the Nose in a day on Monday).
Tim led Stone Groove with one fall; I followed with difficulty and he took a lap on toprope.
I led Lunatic Fringe and Tim had a couple of hangs at the lower crux, where his hands do not fit well.
Y: new routes 5/17-18/08 Bob Steed
at a remote cliff with nice rock
Sat: completed p3-5 of Bob's route
p2 had 4x. Bob led all of p3 - 5.10a with several 5.9 sections. Bob on p3 He placed 2 pins and 4x for pro, 1 belay bolt when rope drag stopped progress. I followed, then rapped down and replaced the second pin with a bolt, added a bolt at the steepest part where Bob had some sketchy nuts, and added a second belay bolt. I led p4 which started with a 5.9 reachy overhang, then up mostly friendly slab with 1x for pro at the left end of a bulge. Belay above dike on cams. Bob led p5 which was easy. We walked off to the R, which did not work so well.
Sun: Did a new 3 pitch route on upper right side of wall, many nice knobs. It was about 5.7. Rapped down to left from trees (many ants at first tree). Bob then led a left-diagonalling crack/flake (full 60m), and we rapped from a nut and pin.
Y: rebolting Space Babble 5/26-27/08 Kevin Willoh photo trip report
On Monday we climbed 3.5 pitches on the Kor-Beck, and fixed 3 ropes as it started to rain. On Tuesday we jumared back up, and replaced 7 bolts on Space Babble, getting soaked in the process.
Y: rebolting Space Babble 5/30-6/1/08 solo
Completed the rebolting of Space Babble, replacing 10 more bolts. I also checked and tested the fixed pitons - most of them were in place and good except on p1 (where Aliens/TCUs work for the most part). I placed one new fixed piton on p1, just before the move over the roof which starts the 5.11. It appears that the former pointed flake there has broken off, so the move seems fairly tough.
SoYos - Chiquito Dome: rebolting Elegant Inclinations 6/7-8/08 Joel photo trip report
Joel and I replaced all the bolts on this route. On Sunday after finishing the work, we toproped the route, except for the final pitch.
Y: rebolting Middle Cathedral North Face apron 6/14-15/08 Roger Brown, Kelly Rich, Bruce Bundy, Jesse McGahey, Megan McGahey, Roger Putnam, Eric Bissell photo trip report
Jesse, Megan, and Roger P. climbed the first 4 pitches of Quicksilver, placed a good belay bolt there, and fixed Roger B's 600' rope to the high point
Kelly and Bruce climbed the (hard) first pitch of Exodus. The belay needed to be upgraded to attempt the opening runout on p2, so Roger Brown jugged up and replaced the belay bolts.
Eric and I did the first 2 pitches of Mother Earth, with Eric leading both pitches - the second one is 5.10 with rusty 1/4" bolts accessorized by several ancient tat slings and a couple of bail biners. When Eric arrived at the belay stance there were no usable bolts! One bolt had half its hanger missing, and the other was just an empty hole! So he placed some marginal gear above and belayed me up with a hip belay on a very narrow stance. I batmanned briefly past a couple of sections, which worked out OK, and we pulled the bolt fragment, then enlarged/deepened the holes and placed 2 good belay bolts with Fixe/ASCA double ring hangers. It was getting late, so we left 2 ropes fixed.
Sunday:
Kelly and Bruce tried the second pitch of Exodus which was quite tough - 5.10c moves 10' above an RP and 15' above the belay bolts. Bruce belayed by hanging on the rope 15' below the belay bolts. The topo shows 5.9 for the move but is a bit off! After a couple of tries, Kelly and Bruce headed over to Mecca for some shady and better protected fun!
Roger and I jugged up to the high point on Quicksilver, and I led the 5.7 pitch to the top of the route. After several off-route attempts, one point of protection and pulling an off-route bolt, I found an old 2-bolt anchor at the pointed flake and replaced the 2 bolts there while Roger fixed up the p4 anchor. We rapped off, and on the way down I tensioned left to fix a rope to the top of Ticket to Nowhere.
Y: Middle Cathedral North Face Traverse, rebolting 7/12-13/08 Bob Steed
Saturday: up the Gunsight with 6 ropes and gear, across the North Face Traverse. Bob at the end of the approach, carrying 4 ropes Bob belays in the middle of the traverse, at a bush
The crux pitch took us 3 hours, mostly because I lead slow and hauling everything through a couple of trees was epic. We originally wanted to intersect the Smith-Crawford, but it required more climbing up and our rack was minimal. So we rapped down Mother Earth instead. We replaced the first bolt on p11, then rapped 190' from it to a ledge. We placed a new rappel anchor there, fixed the highest rope to it, then went down and left to a stance with the 3rd bolt on the p7 traverse. We replaced that bolt and anchored to it. 3 more ropes tied together were anchored to most belay stations and reached the top of p2 where 2 previously fixed ropes reached the ground. We were at the base at around midnight and then went down to the valley floor.
Sunday: Up Roger's fixed rope to the top of Quicksilver. Bob tensioned out right to reach the top of Orange Peel. This was tricky, involving moving the fixed lines below so a loose block could be sent down. I tensioned down and left to reach the top anchor on Road to Ruin. I replaced one hanger there. The other bolt sheared off when I was trying to remove the nut, so I drilled a new belay bolt. Much of this was in a thundershower, which had quit by the time I got back to the ground.
Tuolumne: South Crack, West Crack, Fairview Regular Route 7/17-18/08 Linnea Williams
Linnea had not climbed in Tuolumne yet, and she had midweek days off, so we had fun doing a few of the classics. South Crack West Crack Fairview Regular Route Linnea leading above Crescent Ledge
Lover's Leap: Traveller's Buttress, Scimitar, The Line 7/21/08 John Imbrie
Y: Lost Arrow Tip, Exodus/Orange Peel, Chouinard-Herbert 7/22-25/08 John Imbrie
Arrow Tip photo trip report Exodus Chouinard-Herbert climbing in the dark (to shorten the bivvy?)
Y: Fall Guy (new route) 8/2-3/08 Bob Steed
Bob and I did a new 3-pitch route - Fall Guy 5.10a. It is on the Middle Cathedral North Face Apron, between Walk of Life and Freewheelin'. topo
p1 5.10a slab, 6x, 130'. Starts where the RFC starting Quicksilver reaches down to the ground. Reach up right to a big stance, mantle up and clip the first bolt. Bob on p1
p2 5.9 corner to 2x belay at stance, 90'
p3 5.10a corner to face with 2 bolts, 100' (90' rappel). Pitch starts with an undercling to the right, with a fixed pin for pro where it turns into a lieback. Up the RFC on fun rock. Wild move at the first bolt, where you "fall over" left to latch onto a ledge. The pitch ends at the belay anchor of Walk of Life.
Shuteye Ridge: High Eagle, Shangri La 8/8-9/08 Debby Wallach, et al photos
Y: Coonyard Pinnacle + higher 8/11/08 Roger Brown photo trip report
Y: Jamcrack, Fertile Attraction rappel, Snot Fun 8/10-13/08 Tom Rohrer Tom on El Cap
Y: Fall Guy, Slipstream, Dark Side, Wump World 8/23/08 Sharon, Bob
We repeated Fall Guy on Middle Cathedral, leading all pitches free this time and replacing the pitons at the top of p1 with bolts. Sharon on the p3 crux
Then we hiked down and hiked up to the Cookie Sheet, where Sharon and I climbed Slipstream 5.8 and Dark Side 5.7 on the left side, while Bob replaced bolts on p1 of Cookie Sheet. Late in the day, Bob and I did Wump World 5.7. Sharon leading Slipstream
T: Aqua Knobby, Tideline 8/24/08 Sharon, Bob
While Bob hiked a load of gear into a project for next weekend, Sharon and I climbed Aqua Knobby. I was a bit hesitant at the crux, but found a friendly way to do it. Aqua Knobby
Bob returned from his project and we went to Olmstead Point. I led Ivory Tower Center, a flaring/leaning 5.10a mostly hand crack; Sharon and Bob TRed. I set up a TR on Tideline by walking up a chimney/gully to its left. Sharon reached the hand jam but her elbows were not ready for the brutal pullup. Bob and I TRed it cleanly. It's rather crank intensive. Tideline
Y: Nose anchor repair 9/11-12/08 Tom
Our original goal (back in August) was to hike to the top of El Cap, rappel down the Nose, fix up some of the rappel anchors. There are a few below Camp 4 which Tom wanted to restore to the vertical equalized mode that they had been originally. Then below Dolt Tower, the lap links connecting the hangers to the chains have become worn, due to people hauling on the anchors (and soft steel lap links vs. harder steel hangers). But with hot temps and us being a bit out of shape, this plan did not happen. We considered a plan B, which was to climb to Camp 4 and then rappel. It didn't happen either. We were now on plan C, which was to climb to Dolt, bivvy and then do the anchor work on rappel.
9/11: I was very late meeting Tom the previous night, so we did not get a very early start. It was fairly hot, so I lobbied to just jumar up other people's fixed lines to Sickle to get started. We did this, with me hauling to each station. Tom was holding up pretty well, but I felt a bit lightheaded on the final section to Sickle, and my ankle was not enjoying the jumaring in my climbing shoes.
I led the 4th class pitch and Tom helped move the bag up the blocky ledge/corner. I originally wanted to combine pitches but I hadn't checked the topo and wasn't sure the rope would reach.
Tom was feeling tired and unsure he could make it to Dolt. So was I. So I led the 5.9 pitch and we went back to bivvy on Sickle. Kane and Ollie hauled their bag up to Sickle just a little after dark. They were sleeping back at Camp 4, fortunately.
9/12: Kane and Ollie arrived in reasonable time, so they went first; Kane linked to our high point, and they had a 6mm lowerout line which worked very nicely. I took their 3rd rope and Ollie's pack, which I left with their friends in Camp 4 later.
We did our first repair work on the anchor at Sickle, removing the lap links at the hangers, which had some deep cuts. They were replaced with stainless steel quicklinks.
Tom and I jumared back to our high point, and I did the tension traverse into the Dolt Hole corner. I climbed up the corner with occasional loose flakes to a big bolt with a loweroff cord. I threaded our haul line through the sling, then rappelled down the corner, cleaning my gear. Finally I rapped the single line to the rappel anchor down and right. I fixed the lead line and jugged back to Tom. He went down to the rappel anchor and swapped the lap links for quick links. I rapped down with the bags.
Tom led down the rappel route, while I followed with the bags and helped him a little by holding the lap links while he applied the chisel to spread them. Eventually we finished and hiked out with our stuff.
On Saturday I took some photos at Wawona Tunnel of "Eat at Degnan's", where a youtube video had shown a long leader fall. Next I tried to finish rebolting Ramer, but the bolts were 5/16" and I did not have the tools to remove them. Finally, I hiked up to Glacier Point Apron and retrieved Roger's gear from the base. Then I hiked over to his campsite and left the gear there.
T: new route 9/18-19/08 Bruce
Bruce and I climbed a new route in Tuolumne, which had 3 easy pitches to reach a ledge, then a nice pitch up a knobby face which was mostly 5.7 but steepened to a short 5.10a or b headwall near the end, 8 bolts, 185'.
Y: Cookie Sheet - Air Play 10/11/08 Bob
We climbed Air Play, and Bob led an extension which required some aid
Y: Cookie Sheet - Electric Avenue 10/12/08 Bob
First ascent of Electric Avenue - a short but sweet finger crack in a boulder. photos
We also climbed a short corner called Five Second Rule
Y: lead climbing class 10/18-19/08 SAC photos (Reed's Pinnacle)
Y: Bridalveil East - Aqua var. 10/25/08 Ken Duncan
An old obscure, but good adventure route. photos
Y: lead climbing class 11/8-9/08 SAC
Sat: Harry Daley w/ Shau, then rain
Sun: Church Bowl - Shau, Marcos, Tae Jeong - some sun, then cloudy
Y: aid climbing class 11/15-16/08 SAC
Sat: Mojo Tooth (half of group; other half at Pat & Jack Pinnacle)
Sun: first 2 pitches of the Nose, with Ken; Jim and Sam were climbing just ahead of us
Y: Higher Cathedral Spire, Serenity/Ahwahnee B/Sons 11/22-23/08 Bjorn
Y: This and That, Finger Lickin' 12/6-7/08 Noriko
Sat: This and That: Said and Done 5.10a C led, Cramming 5.10d N led; neither of us got this clean, partly because I didn't figure out how to keep the rope out of the crack when Noriko did a TR lap
Sun: Finger Lickin': Jawbone 5.10a: N led, Snatch Power 5.10c C led - almost knocked off loose block at top but managed to catch it, Pinky Paralysis p1 5.10b C led, Finger Lickin' 5.10d both TRed. Noriko floated this!